Non-Serviceable Parts

The wind is so bad that it blew the tent flat.

This week has been really rough. Busy here at the shop restoring some vintage equipment, and then computer problems. The worst part is that this rough week has been amplified by a brutal skunking the previous weekend. What’s with the late posting you ask? Well this leads me to my first topic. Non-serviceable or proprietary parts have been the bane of my existence since I first read “made in China” on a box. I am really sick and tired of the mentality that if it breaks, you HAVE to buy a new one. The same goes with fishing gear. So, in order to curb all of this nonsense, from this day forward things will be created by me. Rods, reels, flies, packs, gloves, and any other thing that I can think up. This process was brought along by the computer that I am currently using…

Stage 1: Destroy, Stage 2: Recreate, Stage 3: Wrap with packing tape to make it look "NEW" again

In the spirit of doing it yourself, here is a fly that I would like to share. This little guy works great in clean, deep, or shaded water. More designed for ultra deep and steep canyons full of pocket water.

Step 1:  Start with a size 12-16 Tiemco 2457 or a similar favorite hook with some curve to it. I like using a black tungsten bead for clear dark water, if you are fishing tea colored or brown dirty water, a gold bead will work better. Throw on the bead and 5-6 wraps of .020 lead. Push it up under the bead.

Step 2: Build a Ramp of thread behind the lead wire and cover the wire.

Ramp to the point of the hook.

Step 3: Tie in 1/8″ olive scud back at the ramp you made and tie back. The trick here to get a smooth body contour is to allow the scud back to wrap around the hook. It will naturally wrap around in the opposite direction when you attempt to tie it in, wrap it a few times and pull tighter as you tie the thread back you want the scud back to come off of the fly at an angle. This trick is the key to tying this bug without a giant bulb on the rear end of the fly. Wrap the scud back to the thorax of the fly.  At this point you can leave the tag end to use as a wing case if you are trying to create a more “leggy” type of nymph.

Use thread underneath to segment the body.

Wrap scud back forward

Step 4: Tie in 2 pieces of flashabou and dub the body. I use peacock ice dub for this one, but you can use peacock hurl if you like a tighter fly. I like to tie them in a “V” shape. Brush the dubbing down and tie the flashabou forward.

Brush dubbing down

This is where everything gets magnified

Step 5: Whip finish and top this off with epoxy or bug bond.

Fin.

This bug is extremely versatile and mimics a slew of insects hiding beneath the rocks. Because of the black bead and scud back, it casts a hard silhouette in darker water. Fish it deep in cascades and under waterfalls and get ready for a surprise. The tungsten bead is very optional. I’m not a big fan of tungsten in my part of the world due to the amount of boulders you might cast against. Tungsten beads crack easily.

To fish stained water change it up to a tan scud back, brown dubbing, and a gold bead. You can also tie legs into this, but I find that it is best to just let the dubbing act as legs. If the bugs in your area (colorado, and every other state in the union) are fatter than NM bugs, you can taper the body and make it fatter by dubbing under the scud back.

Good luck out there!

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